Sunday, July 29, 2012

Terracotta meets pink granite

I can't begin to describe how much I loved Labrador. To start with I found one of my favourite types of rock outcrop: made of pink granite.

pink granite coast
Red Bay was one of the most moving and powerful places I had seen. The Basque Whalers apparently concentrated their work on Saddle Island and there are remains of "try-works" (whale oil ovens) everywhere on the sheltered side of this tiny island. It is industry on a huge scale for the 16th century. 


remains of Basque terracotta tiles on Saddle Island from a roof of a caved in building  
The same terracotta tiles appear in Pasaia and other Basque ports. I am fascinated by the tangible link. The ties to history are so clear.

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I loved the contemporary culture too. People were so amazingly friendly and prepared to work with me.  I grew extremely fond of curious objects. Looking at everything with new eyes, I had never seen so many manufactured products with geographical directions on them or relishing their location. The water came from True North, the laundry liquid was from Down East, I washed my hands with North Woods soap. We drank bottled iceberg water called 80 degrees North (L'Eau d'Iceberg) but my favourite one of all so forgive the product placement was the soap called Kiss My Face. It's sold by American importers but I love the name.
True North Water

 



traveling through Basque Newfoundland

From New York to St. John's Newfoundland. There is a energy in the city, the harbour works late, the lights are on all night. The influence of oil money shows.
The harbour at night
 From there to Port Rexton to begin the Newfoundland travels.
Port Rexton
I crossed from one side of the island to the other. We saw so many trees and long straight roads slicing through forests and bouncing over hills. For moments, hours or days I would stop to study Basque ports en route. The Basque presence in Newfoundland and Labrador is visible, I started to become adept at recognizing good natural harbours and deep anchorages.
Port au Choix-one of the Basque ports.


green, dusty and traveling

Returned from Newfoundland and Labrador, it was absolutely amazing trip. I was researching the Basque (whaling) ports and looking at rocks as always.

This whole trip can can best be described as a journey of traveling. I started in Connecticut with very dear friends (trying desperately to return to the human state post jet lag). I then travelled to New York for 24 intense hours before reaching Ottawa by plane.


road / pavement crossing in Danbury from the bus to New York City

Outside Manhattan
I have been using my phone camera as a notebook, for a visual diary of these travels. New York was hot and dusty but now has a familiarity to it.

gorgeous orange school buses

Times Square
The ultimate NYC experience: Times Square at night. I am somewhat allergic to crowds but the wonderment of brightly-coloured lights supersedes that. I grew up in a village without pavements and street lights, the inner child in me sees the fairy lights...